SUMENEP - THE EDGE OF MADURA

Just over 30 km beyond Sampang is the capital city of Pamekasan. There is not much for the visitor to see here unless it is bull racing season. The town of Sumenep on the north eastern end of the island, while smaller than Pamekasan, is more vibrant and has some interesting historical sites as well as some good beaches nearby. The city's old palace (kraton) and museum are worth visiting, as is the large Jamiq mosque with its green tiered roof. Above the town is the royal mausoleum called Asta Tinggi, from where there are good views of the town and coast beyond.
The two main beaches near Sumenep are Slopeng and Lombang. The former, which lies on the north coast some 21 km from the town, is a beautiful location with tall palm trees shading the edge of the beach. At weekends and on holidays Slopeng is popular with families from Sumenep, but otherwise it is quite deserted. A few of the local village people have set up stalls and offer fresh young coconuts and Siwalan fruit, taken directly from the surrounding trees, to passing travellers.

At Lombang, on Madura's north eastern point, a long and narrow stretch of white sand is backed by short cemara trees. Aside from the occasional fisherman the beach is deserted, making it the perfect place for 'getting away from it all'.

A narrow but good road runs the whole way down Madura's attractive north coast, from Slopeng to Bangkalan. There are many small villages and quiet beaches to stop at on the way, in particular the fishing communities of Pasongsongan and Pasean, where narrow estuaries are packed solid with colourful sailing boats.

Before arriving at Bangkalan, which is the last major town before Kamal, it is well worth visiting the Aermata tomb of Ratu Ibu, who was the consort of Prince Cakraningrat I of Madura and a descendant of Sunan Giri, one of the famed Wali Songo, or 'nine saints', who originally propagated the Muslim religion in Java. The tomb, which is set on a hill about 4 km inland from the town of Arosbaya and approached by a long flight of steps, dates back to the mid 17th century.

Madura is also a well known center for batik production and has its own unique style. In the performing arts, the island is famous for its topeng dalang, a mask dance/theatre, which at one time was only seen within the royal palace.